Istria Uncovered: The perfect holiday, in one Croatian peninsula

Set the Mood

There's a quirky new television ad for the Euromillions that envisions Ireland moved to a sunnier location. But you don't need any great leaps of imagination to know what that would be like - just visit Croatia.

From a distance the Balkan language may sound slightly abrasive, but strike up a conversation in (generally fluent) English with any of the locals and you'll discover a people as welcoming, laid back and up for the craic as ourselves.

Now that Game of Thrones has pushed prices higher in top destination Dubrovnik, smart travellers are looking to Croatia's other attractions.

At the opposite end of the country lies Istria, a peninsula jutting into the sapphire waters of the Adriatic. Whether it's beachside lounging or exploring historic townships that you look for in a holiday, hire a car and enjoy the many delights of this varied region - and excellent food to boot.

Guilty Pleasure

It might take the guts of that Euromillions win to stay at the four-star Hotel Valamar Sanifor (valamar.com/en/hotels-rabac/valamar-sanfior-hotel) in peak season, but the view across Rabac bay to Cres island alone is worth it.

Non-residents can still enjoy the amenities by booking in for a meal or spa treatment. Or simply rent a lounger and straw umbrella on Lanterna beach directly outside, and make use of the bar on the adjoining pine walk and the roving doughnut sellers. Bliss.

Cheap Kick

Located on a cliff top, the medieval town of Labin (rabac-labin.com) is a charming step back in time. Wander the cobbled streets to discover small museums, galleries and craft shops or simply perch in the town square and drink in the gentle bustle.

The fortified city walls offer plenty of Instagram snap stops, or if you have a head for heights climb the bell tower at St Justus church and enjoy a view stretching for miles both inland and out to sea.

Top Tip

With its diaphanous waters, it's no surprise that the seafood in Istria is excellent. However, for a rich taste of the region order fuži s tartufi - pasta cooked with black truffles and cream. Enjoy a bowl at Labin's Restaurant Due Fratelli (due-fratelli.com), then pick up a jar of truffle paste to take home with you.

Insider Intel

For a holiday less ordinary, visit St Blaize's church in Vodnjon (zupavodnjan.com) to see 'the Holy Bodies'. These are the complete mummified corpses of three saints - one of which, St Nikolosa, is said to give off an energy that has caused miraculous healings. Among its beautiful altars, the church also holds more than 300 religious relics, many of which are body parts, including what's said to be a thorn from Jesus' crown...

Glitches

Istria's seaside towns are built on very steep hills, so be careful choosing accommodation - that amazing value Airbnb might take a toll on your calf muscles (and during one ill-judged uphill midday trek, my will to live). Older holidaymakers and those with impaired mobility or travelling with toddlers should research carefully. Sensible footwear is a must.

Get me there

Aer Lingus (aerlingus.com) operates a twice weekly service from Dublin to Pula until October 16. The service resumes on May 18, 2017 with three flights per week. One-way fares, including taxes and charges, start from €78.99. Rates at Hotel Valamar Sanfior start at around €98 per night.

For more to see and do in Istria, and Croatia, visit croatia.hr.

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