We challenged Metro’s cartoonist to go on a UK motorhome break — and draw his holiday

As I drove from Ambleside to Keswick, along the stunningly picturesque A591, I turned to my wife and said: ‘I’d always assumed those Victorians were exaggerating, but the Lake District actually does look like their paintings.’

Along with our 12-year-old twin boys, we were in a huge motorhome, embarking on a whistle-stop four-day tour of the Lakes.

As Metro’s cartoonist, I had my supplies in tow, ready for inspiration to strike, and so far, we’d spent most of our time with our mouths open, pointing at things in amazement.

I’d been lent this house-on wheels, named Precious, by the motorhome rental company Camplify (think AirBnB for motorhomes). We picked it up from the owner in Blackpool, and set off.

I’d always wanted to play around in a motorhome. It seemed to me that you got the best of both worlds: the luxury of not actually camping, while simultaneously camping.

This became apparent when were parked in a windy field, surrounded by people in flapping tents trying to light barbecues. Meanwhile, I had a chicken roasting in the oven and remembered I needed to refill the ice trays for the evening cocktails.

And, as an artist, the Lake District is a delight.

The air is clear and the light is so vivid, the colours travel further. Even things that normally have a rigid man made form, like fences walls and houses, tend to lounge and bend and sway, blending visually into their natural surroundings. There isn’t a straight line for miles. 

The merits of a motorhome

We started, as most people do, at Lake Windermere, at Bowness-on-Windermere Camping and Caravanning site (£96 for a hardstanding pitch with electrics), a friendly motorhome site right next to the water.

A top tip is to join the Camping and Caravanning Club as it halves the cost of many pitches — memberships start from £53.

The motorhome, a 7.5 metre Bailey Autograph, was exceptionally comfortable and the layout was instinctive. My wife and I slept in the main room in a large double bed and the kids shared the ‘living room’ double. 

A motorhome is not to be confused with a campervan. In a motorhome there are rooms, head height, an oven, a loo and shower. The kids loved it as it made the actual travelling part of a road trip fun — they could sit at the table and play games as we drove.

Eating costs were also reduced, as we cooked and ate in the motorhome, and fuel consumption was surprisingly reasonable. The motorhome came with a full tank, and we only used a quarter of it.

The prices of motorhomes can reach similar to small houses but renting is a great way to either try before you buy (or simply always stick to renting).

Things to do in Windemere in the Lake District

I’d just finished reading Swallows and Amazons by Arthur Ransom as a night time story to my twin boys, so we were all well versed in the topography and general feel of Windemere.

We span round the Windermere Jetty Museum (£12 for adults and £6 for kids) with its mixture of old and nearly new. The old being the displayed motorboats, steam launches, sailing yachts and vintage speed boats. The nearly new being a working boat yard and wharf, where restorers were replacing the carvel planking on a beautiful old pleasure cruiser.

Next, was a cruise up and down the lake. 

We hopped on board the Teal (£56 for our family of four), a 142ft restored ferry that would take us from Bowness-on-Windemere, to Fell Foot, a National Trust country park where there was a steam train and an aquarium. And most importantly, Teal had a licensed bar.

As we sailed, it was clear that Windermere is split demographically in two. On the east side there are the towns, campsites, motorhomes and tourist attractions. On the west side there is the calm of the rich. Rocky outcrops with twisted oaks line the banks.

Occasionally an immaculate lawn appeared and then, shyly peeking from behind the cloud of pruned trees, a huge gothic mansion comes into view. Paths leading up from boat houses give only hints of habitation.

We pointed at fish in the aquarium for an hour then went to have lunch in the gardens of the Lakeside Hotel and Spa.

Here influencers in grey flannel tracksuits took pictures of themselves in the way of nice views and the waiters all wore white gloves. By the water’s edge angelic looking children threw handfuls of gravel at mallard ducks.

But I’d highly recommend the food. We ate huge Caesar salads and reconstructed home made fish finger sandwiches. I paired my lunch with an excellent flinty white Burgundy from their cellars. 

The sun came out and the lawns shone. It struck me that most of the activities here are still those that the Victorians enjoyed: pleasure boating, steam trains, aquariums and rowing boats. Simple gentle pursuits that cast one away from modern life.

Getting from Windermere to Ambleside

From Windermere we travelled north, past the pretty town of Ambleside through the impossibly stunning cliff sided valleys and high up to Castlerigg farm campsite (£45 per night for a hardstanding pitch with electrics), on the side of a hill overlooking Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite lake.

Up high the wind blew hard, and the shadows of the scudding clouds tracked over the contours of the fells, making the view constantly changing.

As the sun finally dipped below the horizon, there was a banging of pans and clapping applause from the kids as if a great film had concluded.

We’d promised ourselves a visit to the woods next morning so, without the need to pack up, yet another advantage of the motorhome, we made our way due south to a campsite that was suggested to us by trusted friends.

The Kendall Club campsite (£60.70 for a hardstanding pitch with electrics) is situated in the middle of a wood that used to house New Sedgwick Gunpowder Works, where gunpowder was made from 1857 to 1935.

As a result, the woods themselves, dappled and lofty, were alive with birdsong and full of ancient crumbling buildings, man made waterways and wooden bridges.

While exploring and swimming along the tumbling river, teeming with fish, and foaming with waterfalls, we encountered blue flashes of kingfishers and a pair of rare white throated dippers.

The friends we met along the way

Back at camp we met Pat and Dave, fellow motorhomers who, over a few bottles of cheap plonk and Swan Blonde, (the excellent local ale) explained the intricacies of life in a vehicle.

Their advice? Don’t squander freedom when holidaying by motorhome. There’s no need to be rigid with your own itinerary.

The whole point is you can rethink each new day’s travel plan as it comes, especially if you’re not heading to a pre-booked campsite.  

Pat and Dave were just two of the many friendly motorhomers we met on a trip. And, whenever I sat down to sketch I was usually approached by inquisitive holidaymakers who often recognised my work.

On the final day we sadly parted ways with the now much loved motorhome, and pondered on our brief but wonder filled excursion in one of the most stunning areas the British Isles has to offer.

MORE: I gave up alcohol after Sydney World Pride — this time I tried it sober

MORE: Family of four killed by suicidal pilot deliberately driving wrong way down M6

MORE: I tried the app that promises to stop jet lag — the results were remarkable