I visited Taylor Swift's hometown — there was one thing I never thought I'd see in my wildest dreams
It is the place to be for country music fans
Well, it's time everyone got on board with the Nashville vibe. In case you've been living under a rock, Taylor Swift's sweeping Eras tour has taken the world by storm and country tunes are climbing the charts.
For the swelling legion of fans, there's no destination more alluring than Nashville, Tennessee. Known affectionately as Music City, Nashville is expanding into a bustling metropolis, complete with cutting-edge infrastructure upgrades like the new stadium for Tennessee’s NFL team which they're hoping will host a future Super Bowl.
Nashville boasts a vibrant array of live music venues that pepper the city. There's also a deliberate push to preserve the cherished traditions while also embracing urban growth. And it’s clear how the "Swiftie" fandom has exploded over time, reports the Express.
Since settling down in Nashville to pursue her musical aspirations as a young teen, Swift's influence is felt across the city – from the dedication bench at Centennial Park (which features in "Invisible String" from her Folklore album), to the Country Music Hall of Fame in downtown Nashville that houses the Taylor Swift Education Centre. I never imagined witnessing such wonders, but when there’s an empty slot to fill, country music aficionados have a knack for taking care of business.
A Grand Ole Place
Currently celebrating its 99th year, the iconic Grand Ole Opry, recognized as the longest-running radio broadcast globally, really put Nashville on the map.
The Ryman Auditorium, nestled in the heart of downtown and having hosted a who's who of global music icons, was once the original site of the Opry before it relocated to its new digs in 1974.
Even though the contemporary facility is fitted with a neon-lit stage designed for today's era and is surrounded by modern amenities such as a shopping center and outlet mall, the Opry still honors its roots in numerous ways.
Visitors can take a seat on church-like wooden pews identical to those found at the Ryman Auditorium, with the venue itself mirroring the design and atmosphere of the old locale. And right there, centered on stage, lies a historic 6ft circle of wood planks sourced straight from the Ryman, a testament to past performances by legends like Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton, Harry Houdini, Bob Hope, and Charlie Chaplin.
During my time at the Opry, I witnessed a first-time act delivering one of their chart-toppers. Vince Herman, lead vocalist of the bluegrass squad Leftover Salmon, captured the essence of both the Opry and Nashville with his poignant remark.
"These are the brand new good old days," he sung out to the 4,000 fans in attendance, who were thoroughly immersed in the electrifying vibes of the two-and-a-half-hour showcase featuring eight acts, with ticket prices starting at a mere $50.
Modern performances are mixed with nostalgically affordable ticket prices - that's Music City for you.
Music City musts
In Nashville, Broadway is the ultimate destination for live music. This vibrant street, lined with neon-lit honky-tonk bars, buzzes with activity every night of the year, as crowds spill onto the road after hours of enjoying live country music in various styles until the early hours.
The Stage, a saloon-style bar reminiscent of a watering hole from your favourite Westerns, and Robert's, a classic honky-tonk joint known for its delicious food, are must-visits. While at Robert's, don't miss the aptly named $6 Recession Special, which includes a fried bologna sandwich, moon pie, crisps, and a refreshing can of Pabst Blue Ribbon lager.
Tootsies offers another quintessential Broadway experience, belting out more country classics.
Broadway also boasts numerous celebrity-owned bars from music stars like Morgan Wallen, Luke Combs, and Garth Brooks, adding a touch of showbiz glamour to this historic street.
If the live music scene occupies your evenings – and it will – there's still plenty to do during the day. The superb Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum underwent a $100 million expansion in 2014, doubling its size.
The building essentially encapsulates the entire history of the genre, tracing its roots in African American folk music and showcasing memorabilia from every notable country music star in American history, including Swift, the Carter Family, Hank Williams, Shania Twain, Loretta Lynn, and current sensation Combs.
A stone's throw from the centre is the interactive National Museum of African American Music (NMAAM), a must-see spot that beautifully showcases the deep roots music has in America – and my visit there was at times, a truly emotional way to spend an afternoon. Just across the street from the NMAAM stands the Ryman, where you can embark on an excellent tour to uncover how the "Mother Church" of country music came to be.
Approaching the stage, inhaling the scent of the wooden pews which flank the stalls, is an awe-inspiring experience.
Gazing at the sunlight piercing through the stained glass windows at the rear of the venue, experiencing the view that countless artists have seen, heightens your appreciation for the rich history of that celebrated theatre.
And speaking of icons, no trip away from the buzzing Broadway bars would be complete without the historic Studio B tour, where visitors can gaze upon the exact spot and piano where Elvis serenaded fans with classics like Heartbreak Hotel and Are You Lonesome Tonight.
Where to stay
W Hotel nestled in The Gulch area served as a perfect home away from home. Surrounded by a variety of shops, bars and early morning eateries, plus it's only a quick 15-minute stroll from Broadway and the heart of downtown.
The modern, spacious accommodations at this hotel boast what might just be the comfiest beds in the biz, coupled with a top-notch coffee joint right in the lobby to jumpstart your mornings. Plus, there's a gym for fitness buffs and a stellar L-shaped outdoor pool that's just the ticket for Nashville's sizzling summer afternoons or to snap you out of grogginess on a brisk fall morning – it sure did the trick for me!
And when evening rolls around, hit up the trendy rooftop bar Proof for a zesty negroni.
Where to eat
Nashville's culinary scene is as diverse as America itself, with global flavors aplenty. One standout spot I hit was Bad Idea in East Nashville – and let me tell you, it's anything but a bad idea.
Fresh off its feature in the New York Times' "America's Best Restaurants 2024" list, the Laotian-inspired menu will knock your socks off until 10pm, after which it pivots to a communal late-night spread.
Picture dining in a haunt reminiscent of Batman's Gotham – no surprise since locals call the AT&T Building downtown The Batman Building for its distinctive silhouette. There I savored the Nam Khao crispy rice loaded with cashews and mint, a hearty chicken curry pot pie and a refreshing mix of larb with radishes and apples.
Each dish was fabulous, but the star was a scallop stuffed crepe that was simply otherworldly.
When the sun is high and hunger strikes, Nashville doesn’t disappoint. For the ultimate fried chicken, look no further than Hattie B's, with heat levels ranging from 'no sweat' to 'call the fire department,' they've got every palate covered.
I bravely opted for the "hot" spice level at a local eatery, and it was mouthwateringly delightful. But our wise server cautioned us against trying the ferocious "shut the cluck up" option, which he described as a true challenge even for the most daring food enthusiasts.
Howdy y'all
Everywhere in Nashville, that warm Southern charm was on display. Friendly faces were always eager to engage in a morning chinwag while strolling through town, often with a furry companion by their side.
Enthusiasts of sports and tunes alike flock to this dynamic city for a weekend jam-packed with excitement – or to chase their dreams by moving here. As one local put it to me, you'll find more talent in the folks here serving your water than in many other cities across America.
My experience in Nashville left me spellbound. I reckon the world could use a little more of the Nashville spirit, it's an enchanting place of music and gastronomy.
And in the words of Taylor Swift, 'are you ready for it?'
Book the holiday
British Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Nashville. ba.com
In April, both Icelandair and Aer Lingus will begin non-stop routes from Reykjavík and Dublin with connections from UK airports. Visit icelandair.com and aerlingus.com
Rooms at the W Nashville hotel start at around £270 a night. marriott.com
More info at visitmusiccity.com