I Got Into Tonkatsu Kuro at 8:15 on a Wednesday Night and It Was So Worth It

Photo: Katelyn Pabila

You can’t get a reservation at Tonkatsu Kuro, which opened in Ward in February, at a decent dinner hour for the next couple of weeks. That’s how popular Honolulu’s newest tonkatsu restaurant is. When I tried to book, the first available opening was at 8:15 p.m. the following Wednesday. So I grabbed it.

Tonkatsu Kuro is a first of its kind, not a chain. The restaurant uses 72-hour-aged Kurobuta pork, which explains its name. Finding it can be a little tricky. It’s on the opposite side of the Consolidated Theatres Ward parking structure from Merriman’s Honolulu, along Auahi Street, in the same building as Nori Bar and Dean & DeLuca. You can park in the theatre structure, the Whole Foods Market garage or any Ward Village parking for free. And while Tonkatsu Kuro accepts walk-ins, I highly recommend making a reservation—well in advance.

The space is clean, minimal and modern, decorated in slate grays with greenery and a branch arrangement hanging from the ceiling. Seating includes a central island with bar-style seats and about 10 tables lining the perimeter.

SEE ALSO: Fresh, Crackling-Crisp Hand Rolls Make Nori Bar Worth a Visit

Once seated, you order on a tablet. The menu has Soba & Half Katsu sets, Premium Katsu sets, and soba bowls.

Prices are comparable to Tonkatsu Tamafuji, which books up months in advance but does not use Kurobuta pork; and cheaper than Ginza Bairin Tonkatsu, which does use Kurobuta. Tonkatsu Kuro’s Soba & Half Katsu sets ($28) include tenderloin and shrimp katsu and your choice of Kuro Soba, Lemon Soba or Bibim Soba.

Premium Katsu sets include the Assorted Katsu Couple set ($62), Loin Katsu ($28), Tenderloin Katsu ($28) and a Shrimp Katsu set ($30). Premium Katsu sets come with rice, miso soup and shaved cabbage and up to two free refills of each. You can also order soba à la carte ($19).

And here’s the coolest part: A robot brings your food! It rolls up to your table with four tiers of trays, and your server places the food on your table.

Here’s what we tried.

Lemon Soba & Half Katsu set with a side of Curry Sauce, $28 and $7

Photo: Katelyn Pabila

Chilled buckwheat noodles come in a lemon-infused cold tsuyu broth, topped with grated daikon, generous nori flakes, green onion, sesame seeds, lemon slices and a bit of wasabi on the rim of the bowl. I mix all of the wasabi into my soba, and it adds the right kick without overpowering the dish. This is actually my first time trying cold soba, and I can honestly say it is a 10/10.

The tenderloin katsu (60g) is incredible—light and crispy on the outside, juicy and almost melt-in-your-mouth on the inside. I usually go for chicken katsu because pork can be tough, but this dry-aged tenderloin completely changes my mind. Literally the perfect piece of pork.

The shrimp katsu has the same crisp exterior, though the shrimp itself is a bit dense. I dip it in the tartar sauce, which has a thinner consistency but is still creamy and tangy.

The curry is thick, savory and flavorful, but honestly, the katsu doesn’t need it—I prefer it on its own and with the house katsu sauce.

You’ll find three sauces at every table: a traditional tonkatsu sauce and two for the cabbage—goma (sesame) and garlic ponzu. I prefer the garlic ponzu for its light, tangy flavor. The goma is on the creamier side. Both are solid options.

Tenderloin Katsu, $28

Photo: Katelyn Pabila

This set comes with three pieces of tenderloin cut in half (190g), along with cabbage, rice, miso soup, tsukemono (pickled vegetables), karashi mustard and a lemon wedge. It’s a bigger portion of the same tenderloin katsu above. The dab of spicy Japanese mustard adds a nice punch of heat and contrast to the richness of the pork.

A quick note: The Soba & Half Katsu sets do not include rice or miso soup. So if you’re the type who needs rice with your meal (like me), you’ll want to order one of the full katsu sets or add sides separately.

All in all, Tonkatsu Kuro checks all the boxes for an excellent katsu experience—panko made from real bread, wire racks to keep the katsu crispy, tableside sesame seed grinding, free refills of accompaniments. Add to that a delicious dry-aged premium pork and a fry that’s flavorful but not overly oily, plus a memorable lemon soba, and this is the meal I’m still thinking and talking about.

Open daily 5 to 10 p.m., 1000 Auahi St. Suite 134, Kaka‘ako, (808) 867-1212, @tonkatsu.kuro.hi